Manual TX RX
Introduction
Thank you for making the decision to build the LYNX DMX Transmitter or Receiver. I believe this decision will be one you will be very happy with.
This manual works for both devices with very little difference which will be noted.
There are three parts left off the receiver compared to the transmitter and there is no place for them. The three missing parts off the receiver are the BBA519 amp, 100 ohm resistor and a 10uf capacitor. The PCBs look just slightly different.
WARNING! This device uses potentially deadly voltages in operation. If you do not feel it is within your ability to work with these voltages please stop and get assistance, or purchase ready built commercial Equipment. This Equipment has been design for personal use as a means of education and entertainment. As such it is not rated, tested, or approved for use in commercial environments and as such is forbidden by the designer. Improper use of this equipment could be hazardous to life and property and the suitability of use is your responsibility. I assume no responsibility in the use or operation of this equipment or for the accuracy of any information made on part of itself. This device has been design for my use and my use only. This is simply an explanation of how I built my own personal equipment for informational purposes. I make no warranties written or otherwise to it. It should be considered an experimental device with possible unknown characteristics.
Before we start assembly of the device we want to do two things. First we need to take inventory and make sure we have all the components that should have come with the coop kit. Using the list on the next page verify you have the correct parts and quantity of parts before we proceed any farther. Please use static precautions in the handling of these parts. If you are not familiar in them please research on the internet prior to handling them. You can damage you parts with improper handling!
Preparing to Build
I trust you have everything you should you have.
The next thing we want is to make sure you are up to speed on soldering and electrostatic protection of the components in your kit. If you are not an experienced printed circuit builder I recommend you visit the site:
http://curiousinventor.com/guides/How_To_Solder
And check out there extremely good video on soldering correctly. Even if you are an expert it is a good video to watch.
Another issue you must be aware of is that some electronic components can be damaged easily by electrostatic charges that can build up in you or your equipment. We have all been shocked by walking on carpet and grabbing a door knob before. This is electrostatic charge in action. It takes much less than this to hurt some of our parts. If you are unfamiliar with procedures to protect from this please use the internet to research it before opening your parts up. You can damage your parts if handled wrong!
You will need a few tools that do not come with your kit to build the Transmitter. You will need a good soldering iron. I can not stress enough that a good soldering iron makes a big difference in these projects. The little 15w cheap irons are more apt to hurt your parts by taking too long to get the parts up to soldering temperature than a good iron which can bring it up to temp very fast. Remember it is more how long you keep the part hot than it is how hot you get it within reasonable soldering temperatures. A good soldering iron can be had for very reasonable amounts of money. You can purchase one for $30 to $60 dollars. Most anything that is called a soldering station where there is a temperature control separate from the iron itself will more than likely be fine but make sure it is rated for more than 15 watts. I myself use a cheap Weller like this one
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-Soldering-Station-WLC100-120V/dp/B000ICEMYA
It works fine and is very inexpensive. I even saw this model on sale at Sears. Radio shack has a very nice looking digital model on sale but be careful as it does not allow you to replace the tip. Tips are a part that wear out and need replacing from time to time. While we are on tips get some. I recommend you get the smaller chisel shape as this work very well for all around board building.
You need solder so buy some. I recommend .032 size (0.8mm or 0.7mm) as the larger sizes tend to cause you to put too much solder on. How much? Go ahead and get a 1 lb spool as it’s cheaper in large volume and you will go through it faster than you think. Make sure you are getting rosin core for electronics they make some solder for plumbing that has acid as the core this is a bad mistake to make.
You need some work area to work with good lighting. Do not attempt to solder circuit boards in poorly lighted areas. If you wear reading glasses go get them you will want them I promise you. I recommend a set of helping hands like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104639&cp=&parentPage=search
Step 1
Install resistors and .1uf capacitors.
Transmitter board after the resistors and capacitors are installed
Ok we are ready to start assembly of the Transmitter. Begin by installing all of the resistors in there proper place. There are 3 4.7k ohm resistors right together on the left side half way up the board. Resistors do not have a wrong direction but I always put the color bands the same direction to make it look professional. All soldering takes place on the bottom or (back) of the board away from the markings unless I say so as in the two surface mount items on this board. Remember that when you turn the board over to the back every thing reverses on you.
Now find the location for the three .1uf caps and install them. There is no wrong direction for these.
Step 2
If you are building a Transmitter then follow the next instructions. If you are building a Receiver then skip to the text. "Receiver continue here"
Install the BBA 519 amplifier chip in the top left. It is Surface mount so it takes a little work and gets solder on the top side of the board. You have to center it up on the eight pads and make sure the pin 1 marking is on the left bottom pad. The chip is marked look close and the PCB is also marked “1”
Make sure you have this correct. Check before you solder and the tack one corner pad and then the opposite pad to hold it while you solder the rest. Put your soldering iron tip into the little notch on the side of the chip and feed just a little solder till it fills nicely and solder it to the pad.
Install the small tantalum capacitor into its spot just below the left top mount hole noticing that on current pcb's there is a large “+” on the lower pad for it. The part is marked with lettering on one side of the capacitor body and a “+” just above the positive lead on the same side as the lettering. These markings are very small and use of a magnifying glass is recommended. Take the time to find the marking as this capacitor does have polarity and must be installed correctly.
Install the one 10 Ohm that is just below this.
Receiver continue here
Install the 28 and the 8 pin Socket Line the notches up on the sockets with the notched end of the drawing on the pcb and then solder all the pins.
Install the chip sockets in the board in the proper location. Make sure the notch on the one end of the socket is on the same side as the notch in the silk screen on the board. It shows you which way the chips should be inserted.
Everyone has their own way of holding the socket in until they are soldered in. I like to turn the board over to the back and put the least amount of solder I can over one of the middle holes on one side of the socket. This allows you to put the pins of the other side of the socket through and hold the socket while pushing extremely easy. Then you heat that one hole on the back. When the solder melts the socket will drop in. remove the iron and it will cool and hold the socket in until you are done. Make sure to reheat this pin while doing the others to insure you have a good joint. Some people prefer to use tape to hold them in and some even super glue them on first and then solder. If you use tape then the painter’s masking tape is a good option as it does not leave any residue behind when it is removed. Make sure your socket is in the correct holes and that it faces the correct way and then solder the other pins in. If you are happy with it you can go ahead and start soldering the other sockets in. And check each one for direction before soldering it. Pay careful attention that you are putting the right size socket in the correct set of holes
That’s a lot of soldering so take a break. If you try to do too much in one sitting you will start making too many mistakes and mistakes with solder are costly in time. Notice that we started with fairly short items. It is best to put short items on and work out to the taller items as you go. As you progress you will understand better why this is. The image at the top of this section is what it should look like at this point.
Step 3
Transmitter after step 3
Now install your two 100uf caps near the bottom left make sure the black strips are away from the + marking on the board.
Install the third 100uf cap in the place marked for it on the board that is just below the DMX IN jack.
Install the pinned headers the two 2 pin and the one 6 pin. Make sure you look at them and put the small pins through the hole and point the longer pins up.
At this point you need to have already modified the RF module as shown in the video provided on the forum in the wiki where this manual was located.
The important thing is when you cut the antenna shaped like an "E" off, find the word "MicroChip" and cut the word "Micro" off and leave "Chip" attached to the module" So cut it between "O" and "C".
Now it is time to solder the RF module on the pcb board. First lay it in its place and bend an old resistor lead you cut off to go down the hole mark RF at the top of it and to lay on you pad that is left in the center of the module from your modification done via the video where I show you how to.
Make the bend as smooth a turn as possible not a tight corner. Set the lead aside and solder the module in place making sure to line it up well on the 10 pads.
Now drop the lead you made back in place and solder it onto the pad that was left after you cut the antenna off in the mod. Do not let it extend past the pad up on the other parts of the module. Now flip the transmitter over and solder the lead to the bottom of my pcb where it sticks out and cut it off as short as you safely can.
Install the Antenna connector on the pcb. Make sure the center pin is on top of the pcb and is lined up centered on the narrow center pad for it. While the outside mount pegs are on their ground pads. It will take a lot of heat to solder the outer pegs so do the center first and do not put too much solder on it our you will short it to the ground pads.
Now crank up you soldering iron and when it has got good and hot solder the outer pegs. You only need the out side edge of them soldered.
Set your iron back to normal temp.
Step 4
Install the voltage regulators 78s05 and LD1117 voltage regulator making sure you have them in the correct location and turn the correct way. The metal backs of the regulators should be towards the PIC chip socket (28 pin).
Insert the Power connector and solder all three pins. Two of them should not connect to the ground plane and are isolated so do not bridge solder from them to the big copper ground plane. One is attached to the copper ground plane and is a big heat sink. You need to crank the iron up and wait on this to flow solder. Do not give up too early you will not cook anything if you are not melting solder well. Make sure you iron is hot ans get as much contact with the iron and pcb as possible.
Snap the DMX inRJ45 jack into the board and solder.
Sit back take a deep breath you did it! Pat yourself on the back and have a cold whatever it is you enjoy.
Thank you, enjoy your Transmitter
RJ
